The last denim review I wrote feels like a lifetime ago. Four years ago to the day, actually. In that time I started painting and shooting film again (my photography website). I have written two screenplays (almost finished the second). My father passed away. I raised a dog who is my best friend and has been attacked 5 times and put in the ER. I acted in two TV shows and 5 commercials. I started making music again and have written and recorded 25 songs ((Sunny Waters and Grey Tomorrow). My brother got married. My wife got covid 4 times. I moved twice.
I could point to all of these things as the cause of my absence, but that is not the reason. The truth is, I just didn’t feel like it. Or more accurately, I felt almost allergic to it. The thought of it stressed me out. Maybe because I wrote over 100 reviews in a few years. Maybe because my denim collection passed 200 pairs, not including shirts, jackets, totes, and even a denim checkerboard (thank you Long John Denim Blog). Maybe because I worked at the best denim shop in LA (kisses to Andrew and Matt) and talked about denim all day, 6 days a week, for years. Maybe because I messaged back and forth with denim obsessives like myself on IG and Facebook or answered denim questions for people reaching out through this site every day. Whatever the reason was, I just wasn’t compelled to write about denim.
Now, it is the end of 2024 and I just received a pair of jeans from Hiroshi Kato. Kato is actually the first brand I ever did a proper review on (I think) back in 2016 (I think). This pair, The Mammoth in 17.5oz 4 Way Stretch Selvedge inspired me to do another review. So let me knock the dust off this old trusty blog and get into it.
Kato Brand makes all of its clothing in Los Angeles using premium Japanese fabrics. This brand specializes in using emerging technologies to create fabrics that are equal parts heritage and tech. The style is universal, clean-cut Americana with modern fits and while they have clear shades of military and workwear influence, they stay more moderate and don’t usually veer into the extreme side of reproduction wear. Perfect for people who work in a casual to semi-professional environment and who range from denimhead to someone just wanting to elevate their wardrobe quality and style from the average US retail staples. The real ace up the sleeve for Kato is how damn comfortable their clothing is. I would go as far as to say they are the most comfortable brand out there. I have a couple of their shirts that once I put them on, I wear them for a week or two straight until I just have to wash them. Their 4-way Stretch Selvedge Denim is the same way.
The Hammer Straight – Indigo Raw 17.5oz Mammoth Selvedge
I have a love-hate relationship with stretch denim. 99% of it is trash, for a handful of reasons. The lightweight stretch, inevitably worn too tight by most people with a tunnel vision penchant for ultra slim tapered form-fitting jeans, have those jegging-type ripples in the back of the thigh and on the side of the calves that make my skin want to leave my body. Stretch denim that is heavier than about 13oz does not breathe like cotton, and depending on the tightness of the weave and elastane amounts, can be suffocating and sweaty on even slightly warm days. Another thing is, unless it is specially made stretch, it does not have the same hand as 100% cotton denim. It feels a little too soft, in a synthetic way. It just doesn’t feel right to the touch. But then there is the sweet, sweet comfort. The glorious feeling of being able to bend down to tie your shoes, climb into a truck or throw your leg over a bike without having to take a breath and a moment to prepare yourself for the ordeal. It can be addictive. We have lost some of our raw denim brethren to the stretch. Good people. Although I don’t see myself ever picking sides, this pair has made a very strong argument for stretch selvedge.
Fit
Labelled as Kato’s straight fit and like most “straight fits” there is still a slight taper from the knee to the hem. The taper from the knee to the hem on most brand’s “straight fits” is usually between .25” to 1” and most of the time equates to a fit that looks pretty straight when worn, although technically tapered. The pair I received from Kato had about .75” of taper. The pair does look slightly tapered when worn, especially if cuffed, which accentuates the taper of jeans.
The fit suggestion from Kato is to size up from your usual Kato size because of the weight of the fabric. I am usually a 34 and went for the 36 because they do not make a 35. The 36 is a size too big for me. I am not sure how I would have fared with a 34. As always, if between sizes, go with the larger size, throw on a belt and get on with your day.
The rise is a solid mid. I personally prefer the look of a mid-high rise, but there is something to be said for a proper mid-rise for us who do not have perfectly flat stomachs and slim waistlines. As long as the mid-rise has enough coverage for when you see a shiny nickel on the ground ripe for the taking, they can be the most comfortable of all the rises.
The last
Fabric
This fabric really does blur the line between stretch and non-stretch selvedge. Many stretch selvedge fabrics attempt to feel like 100% cotton and few succeed. The only others I can think of off-hand who have managed to do this well are Oni and PBJ. it has a nice rough cotton hand, I would guess it is a short staple USA cotton, maybe Texas or Memphis. The one thing that Kato’s Mammoth stretch has managed to do better than most is breath. This denim breathes pretty much just as well as any 100% cotton 17oz denim. It’s pretty remarkable. The weave and tension of the fabric is medium-high and there is a nice subtle texture. It is not particularly slubby but it does have a light crosshatch texture that will emerge as it fades. Very little grin through of the weft making for a nice dark indigo appearance with a slight redcast and greycast tone. The 96% cotton/4% elastane is a fair amount of stretch but the fabric does not feel overly stretchy, I would have guessed it was 2% or 3% stretch. The stretch in both the warp adds so much more mobility and comfort and helps the rebound of the denim. Stretch denim that has only stretch in the weft bags out because of the 100% cotton warp. More pressure is put because there is from the give of the weft.
Details:
Bordeaux and white selvedge ID
Indigo-dyed leather patch
YKK premium Zip fly
Branded top button and rivets
Bartacked back pockets
Parting notes
I was very happy to see that the size of the back pockets had been reduced from my previous pair of Kato jeans from a few years ago. I have mentioned to them in the past that I felt like they were too big. Whether they reduced it because of that or other reasons, I am not sure. But I feel like it was a good improvement. I would personally love for a slightly straighter fit. But for most people, this cut is on par with what they have come to expect from straight fits. This pair will definitely find its way into my rotation from the fall through spring. I would recommend this pair for someone wanting to enter a fade competition with a heavyweight pair, as they would be a pleasure to wear for a year straight.
Available Here: Kato Brand Official Website
~The Denim Hound, October 31st, 2024
