By the time I got around to customizing my third pair I wanted to do something with a little bit of pop. I wanted to pack on the details without going over the top. I was looking for a lighter weight denim than my previous two pairs (20oz and 22oz), something good for sunny, LA summers.
Cut: Skinny Luke – A medium to low rise with moderately roomy thighs and a strong taper down the leg.
Measurements: Size 31 (customized waist measurement) – waist 32″, rise 10″, back rise 14″, thigh 11″, knee 7.5″, hem 6.25, inseam 30″
Fabric: 14oz sanforized twisted blue, black and white weft selvedge from Fansun Mill China. Made from 100% Xainjon cotton. A slightly coarse warp and very soft weft. A tight and uniform weave with a nice amount of hair. The twisted weft give the denim a very nice multi-dimensional color and speckled appearance.
Details:
- Copper custom SOSO buttons and rivets
- Copper and yellow stitching
- Tucked belt loops
- Black and white selvedge ID
- Belt loop selvedge
- Peekaboo selvedge on watch pocket
- Hidden fly selvedge
- 4mm Swedish prima – A – grade leather patch
- 6 belt loops
- Bar tacks on back pockets
- Front pocket hook loop selvedge
- Reinforced fly
- Chain stitched waistband, yoke and hem
- Double felled inseam
First impressions: Really an impressive pair. The stitching is cleaner than the first two pairs. A very nice denim from Fansun Mills. The weft side is so, so soft right of the bat, while still giving a nice texture on the warp side. Because of the tight weave and slim cut they are a bit warmer than I expected. Comfortable to wear up to about 80˚. Because of the lighter weight of the denim I had the waist taken in an inch to compensate for stretch. I am very satisfied with the Skinny Luke cut. Fits almost perfectly as is. Next time though I may request a little higher back rise. In choosing the two tone yellow and copper stitching I was hoping to go for that classic lemon and tobacco, Levis thing. When the jeans arrived, the yellow stitching was bolder and thicker than I had thought it would be. It will become subtler with time as the denim gets lighter, hopefully striking that perfect balance.
Get your own pair of SOSO middleweight denim here.
~ The Denim Hound 1-3-17